By rail -
Journey from Queanbeyan to Canberra July 2013
Cold of
station hands in pockets, geometry of rail lines and point rodding. The locked
toilets and well maintained brickwork of the station with waiting room opened
mysteriously for no staff in sight. Train snakes into the platform and into the
warm of the railcar. Plenty of room in my seat to spread out and unwind scarf
and slowly pull off my woollen gloves as they resist my touch.
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I’m entranced by swirling mist along Molonglo valley, through
cuttings of solid rock along ledge above the rapidly flowing river. There are piles
of termite eaten old telephone poles in strange geometric patterns lying alongside
this uneven track. Our train slows as kangaroos leap fence and the horn sounds,
breaking into sunlight by the huge military communications base. Meal ticket
for a hot lunch as train gathers speed. The distinctive movement of train
wheels on track and the shadows of trees across windows. A series of tunnels
with brick porticos and stygian black with sudden reflections back into the
carriage suddenly transformed to winter sunlight. Tight curves and freshly
painted white marker posts. From cuttings to high embankments as the train
descends I to the valley of Bungendore. The intersecting v of the Captains’ flat line and an old signal with exposed washed away
ballasted wooden sleepers and the rail removed for a few metres to prevent any
possibility of a connection even by accident with this branch line.
Slowing
into the Bungendore loop and into the platform, blue station signs against dark
red brickwork and the traditional serrated platform canopy edge with cast
supporting pillars.. Here telephone posts now unlined stand alongside , some
leaning at an angle with a supporting wire guy rope. Some are grey fragile
looking wood and others on old rails with small white telephone isolating caps.
Currawongs and Ravens find these useful purchases from which to survey the
landscape. Some like old soldiers have fallen
twisted to the ground and others have arms twisted in different directions,
pointing wildly like spirit crazed prophets We gather speed as the traction
motors increase their tempo. In the siding I noticed that the rails were not
welded, held by fishplates with expansion gaps. Alongside the line occasionally
a line of old wooden sleepers much eroded lies alongside the track like a
second ghost line.
Grey
sheep against sparse winter upland grass, creeks full of water with willows
alongside, the water dark and still. Rocky outcrops of broken stone, they seem
to rise above the ground like the backs of whales surfacing for air. Grey sheep
sprint away from the now speeding train against the clear resigned voice of the
female announcer. The train speeds and
slows according to the need to traverse quite marked curved. Occasional mobile
calls and slightly raised voices and the excited voices of the mother and eager
interested young children in the seat alongside me. As we move across a valley over the
embankment a burst of wind blows diesel fumes alongside as we come to a signal
stop perched above a dry creek bed. A discarded rusty rail is like a snake
alongside the track.
As we
move ahead at speed I
At Tarago
the sun shines again, there are piles of new looking steel sleepers lying
alongside the track as beanie suited travellers board. This is a reminder no doubt that we are now
on a heavily used freight line.
A set of
steps for the low platform is chained with shining chain to brightly painted
brickwork. There is a siding here, the remnant of once was a goods yard and
rail workers in white utes watch us pass as the train climbs above the valley.
The variegated harmony of train noises. brings back so memories for me. I
recollect journeys across the Salisbury plain as a boy but these vitas of the
high Monaro plains are different. Cars now travel beside us and slowly as if
with some pride we pass them. The undulating road beside the flat line gives an
odd look as if the cars were in some kind of game with the competing train.
Space opens up as if for a lost station as we travel past the Little Bathurst
tea rooms. Horses looking up, heads high as we pass and horned deeply brown
cattle hardly seem to notice our
passing.
We
approach the main line with a steel bridge at right angles as with a gentle
curve we circle past a green light to the main line and to double track. We
pass a roundhouse and yard, brightly painted sky blue locomotives and others in
different liveries. As the train pulls away a railway staff member takes down a
wooden destination board. It is many years since I have seen these and remember
well these boards from Britain where kept upright on the platform they were
inserted to announce the route of the next train and the stations where these
stops. Of course these are all electronic boards now.
Beyond Goulburn
alongside the track over rivers are massive pillars of former bridges now
replaced by modern structures.
Beyond Goulburn
I eat my hot meal served in a cardboard tray to be reused and watch as
countryside changes, we travel through small stations without stopping and
climb again through woodland and green pasture.
The feel
of the train has changed and its song too as we travel along the welded heavy
freight rail towards Sydney.
There are
four movements in this symphony, the first is the endangered branch line to Canberra
surely under the doom of closure, the second the freight line that runs along
half the length with clear intention for upgrade and the third is the well
ballasted main line into the Southern Highlands. The last is the dance with electric trains
through the suburbs to Central Station in the heart of the city where I change to a suburban train across the Harbor bridge.